From fantastical gowns to standard period fare, the Best Costume Design Oscar category this year has become more of a race than last year’s obvious win for “Wicked.” Both the sequel, “Wicked: For Good,” and Guillermo del Toro’s incredible visual spectacle, “Frankenstein,” seem to be the top contenders vying for the Academy’s prize this year and the edge may go to “Frankenstein,” which is considerably higher in the Best Picture category following rave audience reactions on Netflix, while “Wicked: For Good” faces a weaker critical reception compared to the first film. Let’s see where the race currently stands between Astra and CCA nominations, as we look ahead to the Costume Designer Guild nominations later this week…
Kate Hawley – Frankenstein (Astra & CCA)
Malgosia Turzanska – Hamnet (Astra & CCA)
Lindsay Pugh – Hedda (Astra & CCA)
Ruth E. Carter – Sinners (Astra & CCA)
Paul Tazewell – Wicked: For Good (Astra & CCA)
Colleen Atwood & Christine Cantella – Kiss of the Spider Woman (CCA)
Małgorzata Karpiuk – The Testament of Ann Lee (Astra)
Alexandra Byrne – The Fantastic Four: First Steps (CCA Shortlist)
Miyako Bellizzi – Marty Supreme (CCA Shortlist)
Colleen Atwood – One Battle After Another (CCA Shortlist)
Rita Azevedo – The Secret Agent (CCA Shortlist)
Ernesto Martinez – Song Sung Blue (CCA Shortlist)
This could be costume designer Kate Hawley’s first nomination and first win. “Frankenstein” notably combines both fantasy and period elements, being set in 1857 but featuring many fantastical elements. Mia Goth is equipped with some of the most stunning, exuberant gowns of recent films, which extends to the many extras in equally beautiful costumes. Elizabeth’s wedding gown makes for a quintessential scene within the film, becoming an instantly recognizable image. The Creature is dressed in costumes that feel both homemade and fantastical, while Victor wears decadent suits.
Alternatively, “Wicked: For Good” is the reigning champion of the category. Academy Award-winner Paul Tazewell has elevated his fantasy world with luxurious, sparkling gowns; this second part showcases Glinda’s bubble dress, wedding dress, and a shimmering purple/blue number that already stands out. The contrast in costumes between Elphaba and Glinda is still perfect, with intricately crafted looks for both. Another factor in “Wicked: For Good’s” favor is the sheer number of extras, all wearing immaculately designed outfits that catch the eye. Sequels have won the category before, with “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever” and “Elizabeth: The Golden Age” both winning the same prize as their predecessors. However, the film’s weaker reception might just keep it from following in the first film’s footsteps.
Equally exciting are the films competing for the final three slots in the category. “Hamnet” remains in contention for a possible Best Picture upset, and it certainly has a large number of Elizabethan costumes. Designer Małgorzata Turzańska has not been nominated before, but she has an impressive repertoire with “Pearl” and “The Green Knight” under her belt, along with “Train Dreams” this year. The Academy is always ready to nominate a costume drama, especially one as acclaimed as this. Another plus for “Hamnet” is its use of creative theatrical costumes toward the end, blending the metaphorical power of theatrical work with the period in which the film is set. The red dress Jessie Buckley wears is already iconic, and it’s likely to be at the Oscars.
“Sinners” and “Marty Supreme” are two other Best Picture locks that happen to be period pieces. “Sinners” is flashier, with the “I Lied To You” scene standing out as one to remember, featuring outfits from different eras and cultures coming together for what is undoubtedly the standout scene in 2025. There is typical period fare throughout, and having legendary Ruth E. Carter as the designer, who the Academy loves, certainly is a plus for Coogler’s film. “Marty Supreme,” on the other hand, has fewer flashy scenes than “Sinners” but may sneak in similarly to Chalamet’s last film, “A Complete Unknown,” due to a late surge and its Best Picture strength. Much like “A Complete Unknown,” “Marty Supreme” missed out on the Critics’ Choice nomination despite a strong showing in the shortlists. A guild and/or BAFTA nomination will be crucial if it hopes to compete.
Another wildcard for the Oscar nomination is Mona Fastvold’s “The Testament of Ann Lee,” another historical drama with loads of period costumes. “The Testament of Ann Lee” is not as high in the Best Picture race as some of the other films, but strong backing from Searchlight and a likely nomination for Amanda Seyfried could push it into the craft nominations. The branch loves musicals and historical epics, which could bode well for “The Testament of Ann Lee,” especially since it has flashier work than “Marty Supreme.” However, “The Testament of Ann Lee” missed out on the Critics’ Choice nomination in this category, and its recent disappointing showing at the Golden Globes suggests broad love may not be there for the film.
Other potential spoilers include “Hedda,” which features plenty of period dresses and glamour despite not having any other awards besides Best Actress. “Hedda” notably picked up an Astra and Critics’ Choice nomination over “Marty Supreme,” which also went for “Kiss of the Spider Woman.” Bill Condon’s musical adaptation is not particularly strong in this category, but it does feature some incredibly flashy costumes by a branch favorite, Colleen Atwood, and can’t be counted out as a surprise nomination. Atwood also designed the costumes for Best Picture frontrunner “One Battle After Another,” which received a Critics’ Choice shortlist mention but not a nomination. “One Battle After Another” may not seem like an obvious choice, given its contemporary story, which rarely translates into a nomination in this category. Still, it created instantly iconic looks for each character, and it could become one of the rare modern films recognized in the category for its sheer strength with Academy voters, just as “Everything Everywhere All At Once” did a few years ago.
Wherever the final three spots end up going, we will likely see a category of many first-time nominees, with all of “Frankenstein,” “Hamnet,” “Marty Supreme,” “The Testament of Ann Lee,” and “Hedda” coming from acclaimed designers who have never crossed over to the Academy. It’s an exciting race in all ways, especially as we look ahead to the Costume Designer Guild nominations later this week on the 12th.
So, what do you think? Which films are you predicting to be nominated for Best Costume Design at the 98th Academy Awards? Please let us know in the comments section below and on our X account and check out the team’s latest Oscar predictions here.
You can follow Aaron and hear more of her thoughts on the Oscars & Film on X @AaronDanielle
